Profesh Blowout Secrets, Straight From a Stylist.

April 28, 2016 4:32 pm

On Tuesday, the Xtava squad infiltrated a high-profile operation in order to shed light on a national secret-

How are salon blowouts always so legit??

Okay, so maybe by “infiltrated”, I mean attended an event thrown by LookBooker. But we definitely stole all the secrets.

And drank all the champagne.

Nobody said it would be easy.

The team of stylists at Rizza Salon in the West Village laid some major knowledge on us, the highlights of which we have compiled for you.

1. According to senior stylist Alexis, the key to an effective dry job is removing all excess water from your hair before exposing it to heat by squeezing with a dry towel. To test if you’ve dried thoroughly enough, squeeze your hair with your fist. If you don’t have water gushing through your fingers, you’re ready to put the towel away.

2. Use a mineral oil to lock in moisture. A pea-sized amount will work, but you can add more product depending on how porous your hair is. If your strands are highly absorbent (aka, you can complete Step 1 with just one firm towel squeeze), you can handle more moisture without looking greasy.

3. Stylists prefer a wet brush for detangling. “The wet brush is just more advanced and effective,” explained Rizza owner Angelo. “It’s like wide-toothed combs are the toaster oven, and the wet brush is a microwave.”

4. “Always start from the tip and work your way up, especially if your hair tends to curl naturally,” Alexis advised. “If you start detangling from the root, you risk compressing a tangle or curl into a stubborn knot.”

5. Alexis reached for a rectangular brush rather than a rounded brush for styling. “Think of it like a flat iron,” she said. “The wide, flat surface area gives the hair a straighter and sleeker finish. Round brushes are better for curling or bouncy volume.”

6. Heat protectant is, in fact, a big deal. “Applying heat to hair without a protectant is like trying to scramble an egg without greasing the pan. It will burn,” Alexis warned.

7. If your dryer has heat settings, take advantage of them. Fine hair or sensitive scalps should only be exposed to medium or light heat, and medium airflow. Thicker hair can handle higher heat, but you should never use the highest heat and the highest power for an extended period of time.

8. Concentrator nozzles are important for more than creating shine. “Look at your hair dryer without a nozzle. What does that look like?” Angelo asked us. “A grill. The nozzle puts an extra layer of protection between your hair and the aggressive heat of the grill.”

9. Alexis sectioned hair with butterfly clips and started the blowout at the nape of the neck. She emphasized the importance of ensuring hair is 100% dry. If you don’t have time for a thorough blowout, at least aim for bone-dry roots and tips. Otherwise, your hair will start to frizz and curl.

10. Angelo reinforced Alexis’s technique of aiming heat down the hair shaft. “If you look at a strand of hair under a microscope, it looks like it is covered in scales. You need to flatten the scales in order for light to reflect off the hair, creating the illusion of shine.”

11. If your dryer has a cool-shot button, you can use it to set styles. Alexis curled hair around the brush, then blasted it with cold air until it cooled. “It’s a similar idea to pin-curls, which are bobby pinned to your head while they’re hot and released once they cool. This is just a quicker method.”

12. Alexis used a synthetic bristled brush while she styled, which Angelo explained is because synthetic bristles allow for more even airflow and are less likely than natural bristles to get hot spots.

13. And while we are talking brushes, Angelo really broke them down for us. Nylon tipped bristles are better for control and pulling hair taught, ceramic brushes create more shine and speedier results, square and flat brushes are ideal for sleek styles and a small rounded paddle brush is the easiest for DIY blowouts.

14. As a finishing touch, Alexis put some fiber paste on those itty-bitty, prone-to-subway-sweat hairs at the nape of the neck and around the temples. “A fiber paste thickens the fine hairs and makes them less prone to fly-aways and frizz.”

She also left us with some grave parting words. “You might be tempted to flat-iron your baby hairs. Do not. You will break them, and you will end up with a bald spot.”

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